Overview
The Cham built in fired brick laid with a vegetable resin rather than mortar, a technique nobody has successfully reproduced, and carved the surfaces after the brick was in place. The towers were dedicated to Shiva under local names and the valley was the religious centre of the kingdom while its capital moved. A week of bombing in 1969 destroyed the largest group; the craters are still visible between the towers and the site is not fully cleared of unexploded ordnance, so the marked paths matter.
Highlights
Go at opening, before the tour buses from Hoi An; by ten the site is full and the shade is gone. Group B and C are the best preserved and closest to the entrance. A Cham dance performance runs twice each morning at the visitor centre and is short and good.